Pull the boot off the tube that is running down to the transom assembly and then just slide the boot completely off the cable. A few pluses are: The trim pump has a manual release lever, the trim senders are sealed, their is a trailer trim switch on the drive itself, and the impeller is on the front of the engine. I'm thinking 800rpms is about perfect. Pull the exhaust bellows through the pivot housing and seat it in its channel around the pivot housing opening lip. Clean sealer off housing with solvent. After I'm done with bellows I will have less than 3000deer in this 1995 24 signature. Ended up putting mine in the exact same place he has his.
You can use a wrap of tape around the end of the cable where it sits on the steel dowel to make sure everything stays in place while you're outside the boat making the final adjustments. Please check with us for your used parts needs, as we part out boats and motors on a daily basis. As for the bellows, you can change those yourself, I just did mine as well while I had the other work going on, and I will tell you that you are gonna have to dig deep for those as they are not cheap. Make sure the shift cable wire with the small puck end runs under the idler pulley. Okay, let's start at the top, once you have the six nuts removed that attach your drive to the transom assembly, you have to use some wooden wedges to get it separated.
I'm going to try to adjust the throttle and shift cable before pulling the drive to see if I can fix it. Remove the bolt that holds on the shift cable retainer and then rotate the shift cable retainer until it comes off of the threaded end of the shift cable. Wrap corrugated tube around the shift cable. Attached is a Utube video I found for a Mercruser. Push shaft thru pulley into the housing.
Feed other cable into drive pulley chamber. Lubricate retainer with soapy water and place the retainer on the new shift cable: When properly attached. With the drive pulley grooved surface facing the rack support. Apply some Gasket Sealing Compound Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket to the threaded end of the new shift cable. As for the shift cable, there are several sources available on the internet for it, just google it, and you can expect to pay around 130 deer for it. Going back to the Transom Side of the boat. Can't figure out how to get it off.
Complete Engines, Lower Units and Sterndrives excluded. The first time out seemed to be better than this time. Apply a tiny amount of gasket sealant to the inside of the rubber boot where it contacts with the shift cable transom sleeve tube. Loosen both set screws from the casing guide and then loosen the lock nut and unscrew the casing guide jacket so that only the bare wire end of the shift cable is exposed. Slide the plastic corrugated casing off of the shift cable and pull the shift cable out of the transom assembly housing.
Install Bellcrank Alignment Plate on the two lowest pivot housing studs. Anyways I do, but my Merc set up is actually in slightly worse shape than the Yamaha. I had mine replaced the beginning of this year due to a crack and they did the lower shift cable and I also had them due the drive bellows. Slide the casing onto the guide jacket until the inner cable seats against the sight hole. However, with that torque applied, the gear can't release go to neutral unless the engine is shut down or misfires.
Yea I paid 300 deer for all bellows and gaskets. I just had mine replaced at my dealer, ran me about 500 deer and it shifts like a dream now! Those things smooth it out even more. We will then call you to move forward with payment and shipment! Hope this helps - Yammie's aren't my strongest knowledge base. To fully engage shift cable guide and prevent binding of the shift cable. They would be a good addition for yours once you get everything else squared away. With Special Tool Part No. I want to try to adjust myself before I take it in as the boat is located in a remote area where it is almost 60 miles to the nearest mechanic.
With the cable secured to the tool. Okay, so my plan of action is adjusting the shift cable to specifications once the manual arrives and also loosening the throttle tension. Pull vacuum to 3-5 Inches of mercury for 5 minutes. As I turns out, I saw his boat when I was doing a search on this site about Smart Tab mounting locations. This time however, it would only go into forward if I did it fast, and I couldn't get it into reverse once. No drop in pressure should be realized.
Change Hydromechanical Cap for use in Full Mechanical installation. Note the difference in the size of the cable pucks and the direction the core wires wrap around the pulley. Inspect shift cable for cracks and frayed or kinked core wires. Prior to assembly to the lower gearcase, pressure and vacuum test the shift housing assembly for leakage. Torque each pin to 105-120 ft.